El Guerrero Azteca

Reviews about El Guerrero Azteca

• 4 / 5

  By Jared Castle
  I once read “Taquerías are shrines to the simple authenticity of Mexican cuisine.”
  
  If that’s the case, I recommend El Guerrero Azteca, a simple, blue trailer taquería with a metal outbuilding add-on that covers three picnic tables on Highway 38 in Elkton.
  
  This little stand reminds me of rockhounding on the Oregon coast, where trained eyes can find red-orange carnelian, Moonstone agates and red, green and yellow jasper. Should you make the mistake of driving past El Guerrero Azteca without stopping you will never know what you're missing.
  
  While many are inclined to judge a taquería on its tacos al pastor, my wife and I veer toward tacos de lengua. In fact, author Maria Herrera-Sobek once wrote “It is said that unless a taquería offers tacos de lengua, it is not a real taquería.” in her book, “Celebrating Latino Folklore.”
  
  I didn’t ask owner Geraldo Aguirre how he prepares tongue, whether slow braising or a pressure cooker, but it tastes slow roasted, tender, flavorful and not overcooked. My soft tacos (lengua, carne asada and pork carnitas) were served con todo with onions and cilantro. The hard taco (shredded chicken) came with an ample pile of chopped tomatoes, iceberg lettuce and shredded cheese. I posted photos of both plates.
  
  After finishing our tacos, we ordered two carne asada burritos ($10.95 each) to go. We brought back home to Roseburg for our sons, who had just returned from track and swim practice, respectively. The burritos were plated on large, oval Chinet serving platters, wrapped in aluminum foil, and covered with another serving platter that was stapled at each end. The packaging was noteworthy because the burritos stayed warm and there was no leaking, a typical hazard of take out.
  
  Unlike most taquerías I’ve tried, where they prepare either tacos or burritos or tacos satisfyingly well but rarely both, El Guerrero Azteca delivers on both counts.
  September 22, 2016